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Lo and behold, we assuredly accept a poké restaurant, and acknowledge advantage it’s not a cookie cutter franchised atom consistent from the poké chic that’s been activity on in abundant bigger cities for years, but a well-thought-out, fun restaurant endemic by bounded restaurateurs we’ve accepted for ages. Couple Jay Kreklow (Radici) and Stacey Douin Kreklow (with Flatbread for years) opened this ablaze little gem in Portsmouth’s West End in mid-November, bringing healthful, adorable aliment in basin and “burrito” form.

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First, a bit of background. Poké (poh-KAY) is Hawaiian for “to allotment or cut” and has historically been a bite of raw angle for fishermen, at its best basal fabricated up of ahi, soy sauce, blooming onions or Maui onions and limu, a affectionate of algae. It’s begin everywhere there in all sorts of basin and bloom combinations and about 2010, we started to see it on the acreage in fast accidental restaurants, mostly in beyond cities. Now, little blow shops are all over the abode and aback it does booty a few years for a aliment trend or movement to get to us, it makes faculty that it took until 2017 to get here. Now that New Englanders are bistro added benign food, it additionally makes faculty that we’re all-embracing this appearance of food, too.

Ohana agency “family” in Hawaiian and the Kreklows accompany that familial amore and activity to the vibe of the baby restaurant. They acclimated to alive in Maui and you’ll see a fun surfing burden in the decor, including on the TV up aerial and in arbitrary bath wallpaper. It’s in the benign and appetizing bowls and “burritos” breadth you’ll acquisition the aggregate of the aloha spirit, however, in acidity and additive combinations that booty you far away.

The Krecklows alleged on Thistle Pig restaurateur and chef Ben Hasty to advice with the antecedent card and kitchen set-up. It’s one affair to bung baby cubes of ahi with some soy booze and sesame seeds and addition to appear up with added avant-garde combinations. Go with one of a pre-set Signature Dish or go rogue with their No Limits Poké card breadth you accept your abject (bowl with sushi rice, amber rice, quinoa or greens or a “burrito” which swaps a nori blanket for the tortilla and sushi rice for beans), again your protein like locally sourced ahi tuna, Faroe Island apricot and amoebic tofu fabricated in Maine. Smoked apricot and bounded craven are additionally options. Go basics with mix-ins like Maine seaweed, melon, blooming onion and Japanese chili appetite again accede your sauces like their Ohana booze with soy booze and sesame oil, ponzu adhesive or Sriracha aioli. You additionally get to accept as abounding toppings as you like from a continued account which includes pickled ginger, carrot, tobiko and edamame and again article brittle (the crouton, if you will) like sesame seeds or shallot crisps. Voila! You accept a healthful, appetizing cafeteria or banquet for beneath $14. There are approved and ample sizes with two or three proteins,the approved aloof $10.95. Appropriate now they serve alloyed algid tea, kombucha and Spindrift soda to drink, and for ambrosia amoebic Hawaiian ice, befitting it all simple.

Now that I’ve told you what you can do to Build Your Own, I did none of that and ordered Signature Dishes both as bowls and “burritos.” The signature bowls accord you the advantage of sushi rice, amber rice, quinoa or artisan greens. Get the Ambrosial Brittle Ahi basin with sushi rice topped with baby cubes of aphotic blush and startlingly beginning ahi adolescent tossed with blooming and candied onion, masago (smelt roe), cucumber, jalapeno, sesame seeds, Maine kelp and brittle garlic crisps with ambrosial Sriracha aioli ($10.95 regular, $13.95 large, which agency added ahi). They use aloof abundant of anniversary additive to add texture, aroma or any added acidity element, but annihilation overwhelms, it’s all antithesis in feel and flavor. I had it bowl-style on one visit, and on another, approved the “burrito” adaptation with its attenuate blanket of nori seaweed to authority it all in, which agency you get all the flavors and textures at once. It’s aloof a altered acquaintance and aftereffect as able-bodied as actuality added portable.

The Soyboy is fabricated with the firm, yet still buttery central amoebic Maine tofu with altogether accomplished avocado, cucumber, shreds of carrot, edamame, microgreens, sesame seeds, blooming onion and a abrupt amber chili vinaigrette, abundant on a bed of quinoa. I like that elements in this bowl, like the carrots and edamame are anniversary pushed into their own breadth of the basin so I can mix it all calm if I like or fuss about with each. If you’re raw angle averse, get the chicken, baby bites marinated in a miso adhesive booze and served with agilely adapted broccoli, candied potato, parsnips, carrots, blooming onion and the crisis factor, brittle red onion (yep, like funyons) and sesame seeds, allotment Chinese cuisine craven with broccoli, allotment winter abundance aliment broiled craven with basis vegetables. My admired was a friend’s Illusion, which she about didn’t get aback afterwards I had a few bites. The ahi is alloyed with attenuate slices of candied apple, melon, cucumber and jalapeno with chili booze and wasabi vinaigrette which gives that abundant candied with calefaction effect. I additionally got to sample the Westside Apricot basin with smoked salmon, acerb blooming apple, beginning horseradish, microgreens and a miso adhesive sauce, like article you’d acquisition on a brunch raw bar buffet.

I’ve been to affluence of blow spots in New York City, Austin, Chicago and it’s a admirable way to eat healthfully and deliciously at the aforementioned time. Some of those fast accidental restaurants I’ve been to do it right, but others artlessly don’t. It’s like they saw a trend and got on the appearance with anybody abroad but didn’t anticipate it through, debauchery the combinations or aloof not compassionate how to put them calm accordingly with attention to elements like texture, calefaction and flavor. Not so, Ohana Kitchen. They’re authoritative blow bowls and “burritos” with all the appropriate being and in all the appropriate means with balanced, active combinations of bounded capacity that accomplish faculty and aftertaste wonderful. Here’s to your year of bistro healthfully, Seacoast, and now that we assuredly accept this abundant blow spot, for years to come. Mahalo.

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Rachel Forrest is a above restaurant buyer who lives in Exeter (and Austin, Texas). She can be accomplished by email at [email protected] Read added of her Dining Out reviews online.

Dining Out: Ohana Kitchen 

800 Islington St.

Portsmouth

319-8234

www.ohana.kitchen

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Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Ohana Kitchen reminds me of: 

Laney and Lu Cafe

26 Water St., Exeter

580-4952

www.laneyandlu.com

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Live vibrantly with appetizing and alimental food

Earth’s Harvest

835 Central Ave., Dover

516-7600

www.earths-harvest.com

Wholesome aliment arranged with flavor

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